Imagine a lake where the land itself floats, moving with the winds and seasons. Strange, isn’t it? Yet in the heart of Manipur lies such a wonder — Loktak Lake, often called the “lake of floating islands.” Spread across nearly 287 square kilometres in Bishnupur district, it is one of the largest freshwater lakes in India, and unlike anything else you’ll see in the country. For the Meitei community and for thousands who live on its waters, Loktak is not just a lake — it’s life itself.
The magic of Phumdi
What makes Loktak truly unique are the phumdi — floating islands formed by a curious mix of soil, vegetation, and decaying organic matter. These masses are neither solid land nor liquid water, but something in between. Some are just a few centimetres thick, while others grow up to two metres deep. They drift slowly across the lake, carried by wind and water currents, changing shape and position almost like nomads.
A single phumdi can weigh hundreds of tons, yet it floats effortlessly. In some places, they form near-perfect circles of bright green, like giant lily pads from a myth. In others, they stretch out in jagged or rectangular patterns. The most fascinating part? People actually build their homes on them. These huts are called phumsangs — bamboo and thatch dwellings set upon a base of floating vegetation.
Phumdi are not permanent. In the monsoon, they rise and spread across the surface, and when the dry season comes, they sink to the bottom to absorb nutrients before floating up again. This cycle sustains both the lake and the communities that depend on it.
Life on the water
To step onto Loktak is to enter a world where the boundary between land and water is constantly shifting. More than 50 villages dot the lake and its fringes. Here, families live in floating huts, catching fish, growing vegetables, and moving with the rhythm of the waters. For them, stability is not about fixed walls or solid land — it is about adapting to change, every single day.
Fishing is the backbone of life here. The lake provides food, income, and even raw materials. Small canoes glide through the misty waters at dawn, nets are cast with practiced ease, and phumdi patches are sometimes shaped into circular fish farms.
But Loktak is more than an economy. For the people of Manipur, it carries spiritual weight. Every morning, many still bow at its edge, dipping hands into the water as if greeting a mother. Folklore, folk songs, and prayers describe the lake as a living being — a guardian spirit that gives and protects.
A lake with many faces
At first glance, Loktak is a peaceful paradise. Birds skim its surface, fishermen paddle past floating huts, and the water glitters with the light of dawn. But beneath the postcard beauty lies complexity.
For decades, the lake’s vast phumdi networks have also served as hideouts for armed groups during Manipur’s troubled times. Their constant movement made it almost impossible for the army to trace them. In 2009, “Operation Summer Storm” was launched to clear out militant camps hidden among the phumdis. Hovercrafts patrolled the waters, and security forces swept through this floating maze. Loktak became both a sanctuary for nature and a battlefield for men.
The crisis beneath the calm
The very wonder that defines Loktak — its phumdi — is now also its greatest threat. The turning point came in 1983, with the construction of the Ithai barrage for hydropower. By fixing the water level year-round, the natural rise and fall of the lake was lost. Earlier, when water receded in summer, the phumdis would rest on the lakebed, absorb nutrients, and renew themselves. Without this cycle, they have grown weak and thick, choking the lake instead of sustaining it.
Oxygen levels in the water have dropped, fish species are declining, and migratory birds no longer flock here in the numbers they once did. What was once a self-sustaining ecosystem is now turning into a stagnant swamp. For the people whose homes float on Loktak, this is not just an environmental crisis — it is a cultural and economic one. If the lake collapses, so too does a way of life that has survived for centuries.
Efforts to “clean” the lake often miss the point. Removing huts or clearing phumdis might make the surface look tidy, but it doesn’t fix the deeper imbalance. The solution lies in restoring the natural rhythm of the lake and involving its people in the process. After all, they know Loktak better than anyone.
Tourism – hope or threat?
In recent years, Loktak Lake Manipur has been promoted as a major tourist destination. Boating, eco-homestays, and the annual Sangai Festival attract visitors from across India. Watching the sunset from a canoe, or spending a night in a floating hut,going for Keibul Lamjao National Park, is an experience unlike any other.
But tourism is a double-edged sword. While it brings visibility and income, it has also displaced some of the very communities that kept Loktak alive for generations. Fishermen’s huts have been labelled illegal, even as new floating resorts rise for tourists. The danger is that in the race to make Loktak attractive, its original soul — the people, the culture, the fragile balance — may be pushed aside.
Reaching Loktak
Getting to Loktak is simple. From Imphal, Manipur’s capital, it’s just a 45–50 kilometre drive through rolling hills and green valleys. Moirang and Bishnupur towns serve as the main entry points, where local boats take you deep into the lake. The best time to visit is between October and March, when the weather is cool and migratory birds return.
A fragile wonder
Loktak Lake is not just one of the largest freshwater lake in India; it is a reminder of how delicately life and nature are tied together. Its phumdis, floating homes, and shifting moods tell a story of resilience, but also of fragility. To lose Loktak would mean losing more than water — it would mean losing a culture, an identity, and a living wonder.
For travellers, Loktak offers awe. For locals, it offers survival. For all of us, it offers a lesson: that nature, when respected, can create worlds beyond imagination — worlds that float, drift, and yet endure.